LEISURE LETTER 93: IN TRANSIT PART II
There’s a big island sitting quietly in the Tyrrhenian Sea, just a stone’s throw from Naples, a place most people fly over on their way to Capri. The island is called Ischia, and though the masses don’t talk about it much, it’s been around. The Greeks knew it. The Romans knew it. For centuries, Ischia has sat on the edge of civilization, quietly lush, hot springs bubbling beneath the surface, while history marched by.
Ischia is the green island—draped in pine trees, vineyards, and wildflowers. Its mountains rise steep and jagged, pressing against beaches, some sandy, some stony, all bathed in the endless dance of the Mediterranean. Time slows here. There’s no rush from one site to the next, and certainly no need for hurried distractions. Ischia invites you to linger . . . to savor. It’s the place where lunch stretches long into the afternoon, where wine is poured at noon, and the warm volcanic waters beneath the surface beckon your feet into their quiet embrace.
Ischia’s history stretches back to 700 BC when the Greeks first set foot on its shores. They called it Pithecusae, and it wasn’t just a retreat for them; it was their home base, a place to trade and build. But this island has a wild heart—earthquakes, eruptions, invasions. The Romans, who loved a good hot bath, found Ischia’s thermal springs irresistible, and it became their getaway, too, a break from the grit and grime of the capital.
The island’s Aragonese Castle, built in 474 BC, stands as a testament to the ages, clinging to a volcanic rock out in the sea, connected to the main island by a narrow bridge. The castle watched over centuries of wars, pirates, and plague, and yet it remains. Silent . . . resolute. It’s a good place to start, allowing one to become grounded in antiquity.
Ischia may be reached by boat, which lends to the charm. Ferries run regularly from Naples and Pozzuoli, weaving through the bay before pulling into the harbor. Once on the island, renting a Vespa or a car is a good idea, because Ischia is larger than it looks. And every inch is worth exploring.
The island offers a spectrum of experiences. In Ischia Ponte, you’ll find old Italy at its finest. Streets too narrow for cars wind between stone buildings, leading you down to the water’s edge where locals sunbathe on the rocks near the castle. Here, the past lingers in the air—something ancient, something unhurried.
For a touch of elegance, head south to Maronti Beach and Sant’Angelo. Here, the sands are softer, the cliffs higher, and the food richer. The restaurants and hotels cater to a more refined crowd. But even in this sophistication, there’s a simplicity to it all, a lack of pretension.
If you want to catch the sunset, Forio is the place to be. The promenade is lined with pastel-colored buildings, and in the off-season, it feels like the whole town belongs to you. But when summer hits, prepare for an influx of families, kids, and noise. That’s part of its charm, though—a slice of the island’s more lively, exuberant side.
Ischia isn’t about checklists or sightseeing marathons. It’s about the art of not doing. You can laze at the thermal springs of Sorgeto, a natural spa where hot water flows from the earth and meets the cool sea. If you want a touch of adventure, go at night, under the stars, with a bottle of wine. Feel the warmth of the water as the sky stretches infinite above you. Ischia seduces you in moments like these—quiet, unexpected, intimate.
Walk through Cartaromana Beach, just a stone’s throw from Ischia Ponte. The beach is tiny, but the food at Da Maria is worth the hike. Get the rabbit with spaghetti or the fried calamari. Sip on wine with peaches in it, a summer tradition that tastes like the sun itself. There’s a slowness to everything here—a deliberate, ancient rhythm.
And if you want to feel like you’ve slipped off the edge of the earth, head to La Pace. It’s a family-run restaurant built into a cliff, only accessible by boat. It’s rustic, it’s chic, and it feels like a secret. Spend your day in the sun, watch the boats bobbing on the horizon, and soak in the simple, beautiful life that Ischia offers.
Ischia is for those who understand that travel isn’t always about getting to the next place. Sometimes, it’s about stopping. Pausing. It’s where you come to leave the noise behind, where you lose yourself in long afternoons and find yourself in the quiet of a warm sea.
